It's Cold in Benares
by Robert Rabbin
I feel as though I fell through the rabbit hole in
2004. More than at any time in my life, I became involved in the social and
political events of the day, the temperature of which presidential election
fever pushed to an almost unbearable degree. As we enter the New Year of 2005, I
feel drawn to visit my "roots" -- the early experiences which continue to define
my life and work. I fully intend to journey even deeper into the rabbit hole
this year, but last year taught me that it is of utmost importance to stay
firmly planted in the soil of my soul and to heed the wise counsel of silence.
If we are going to heal this troubled world, we are going to do it with wisdom,
with compassion, and with an elevated sense of our common humanity. Silence
teaches us we cannot create peace through violence. We cannot understand others
without listening. We cannot bring love and joy into the world with anger and
hatred.
And so I tell the following story for my own sake, in order to renew my own
heart and spirit. Of course, I hope you will be similarly inspired.
In 1969, I lived in a wood shack near the village of Trinidad, about thirty
miles north of Arcata, California. I was supposed to be studying Eastern
philosophy at Humboldt State College but spent hardly any time in class.
Instead, I sampled a variety of hallucinogens, sat zazen and practiced Aikido,
followed the saga of Carlos Castaneda, and read haiku poetry -- tiny bridges of
words that are connected to the immense emptiness behind conventional thinking
and meaning. During this time, I encountered the world of silence, and in that
silence I experienced the physical world perceived by the senses was a
paper-thin facade hiding something vast.
It was in search of that vastness that I traveled to India. In 1973, I set off
with a friend whom I had met the year before in Israel. Eric and I had decided
to go overland from Europe. We set off from Paris, hitchhiking to Brindisi,
Italy, intending to take the ferry to Greece, and then trains and buses through
Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and into India.
During one of the station stops in eastern Turkey, Eric and I ventured out to
the platform, where we met another traveler, a Frenchman. Herve was a shepherd
who was returning to India to see his guru,
Swami Muktananda. The three of us struck up a friendship and journeyed together
another two months, ending up in Delhi, India. We had endured and enjoyed much
and had formed a great bond of love. In India, Herve invited us to visit him at
his guru's ashram near Bombay. But Eric and I were headed to Bhutan, so as we
parted company to go our separate ways, I was sure I would never see Herve
again.
I never made it to Bhutan; perhaps the vast silence I was searching for took
control of my itinerary. I was first sent to a small ashram in the foothills of
the Himalayas, where the resident guru, Neem Karoli Baba, had passed on just
days before. I stayed there for about a week. During that time I heard many
stories of Muktananda, and several people, including Ram Dass, suggested I visit
him.
Returning to Delhi, Eric decided he wanted to study the sitar in Benares. I
bought a third class ticket and boarded a train for Madras. My next adventure,
courtesy of the silence, was a two week vipassana meditation retreat with Goenka,
a Burmese teacher. I subsequently visited Satya Sai Baba's ashram, and wandered
around south India. Several months later, I ended up in Bombay. I thought of
Herve.
I climbed into a battered red bus and spent the day crawling the 60 miles to
visit him in his guru's ashram. I entered through a circular gate into the small
marble courtyard that is the entrance wearing sandals, white cotton pants and
shirt, and carrying a small rucksack.
Herve was in a Bombay hospital, expected back soon, and Muktananda was up north
in Kashmir with a few disciples. I was invited to stay as a guest until Herve's
return. I settled into a tiny room with a cot and mattress and a view of the
rice paddies and plantain trees. The ashram was quite beautiful and clean, a
real oasis from the pounding I had taken wandering around India for five months.
Herve returned two days later, and he became my enthusiastic guide through the
ashram's rigorous discipline.
One was expected to wake up at 3:00 AM and pretty much remain engaged with
meditation, chanting Sanskrit hymns, or work of one sort or another until 10:00
PM. As I was still a guest, I was allowed some leniency. I managed a few hours a
day of meditating and chanting, and pitched in with the dishes and the
gardening. Sometimes, a few of us would escape to the dingy yellowed tea shop
next store, where in deep shadows we'd drink strong chai strained through a T-shirt
unwashed in a decade.
I began to get restless. I wanted to head up to Benares to meet Eric. Herve went
nuts when I told him I wanted to leave. He insisted I wait a few more days to
meet his guru. French shepherds can be very persuasive. I relented.
A few days later, a current of intense excitement went through the ashram.
Muktananda was coming home. In the late morning we all gathered densely in the
front of the ashram with the usual cacophony signaling auspicious events: bells,
trumpets, conches, gongs, and clapping, shouting, and stomping. Suddenly, there
was the guru.
I spent several more seemingly uneventful days in the ashram. In Muktananda's
presence, everyone seemed more alert and alive, almost on edge. I hadn't yet
felt the hammer of recognition which would come later in a series of
excruciating inner experiences. Once again I felt it was time for me to head
north and meet up with Eric, and I told Herve I really had to get moving. I
think he felt sad for me that I hadn't connected with Muktananda in the way he
had. I told him my wanderlust was inflamed. I was rested and ready for more
adventures. Relenting, Herve said that it was customary good manners to request
permission from Baba, which is what the devotees called Muktananda, to leave the
ashram; it was a gesture of respect. After all, I had accepted his hospitality
for over two weeks. Not wanting to offend him or Baba, I agreed, though I
thought asking his permission to go was somewhat incredible. I treasured my
independence.
I had my small traveling bag packed and was within minutes of the next bus
departure for Bombay. Baba was sitting on his small marble perch in the main
courtyard where he would often sit for hours, unperturbed by time or events.
Even with my mind preoccupied with imminent departure, I was aware of a
breathtaking aspect to Baba. To this day I have not encountered anyone or
anything as compelling as Baba just sitting on his cushions on that marble
verandah. He was so fabulously dangerous. Anything could happen. Anything did
happen.
I went up to him and said, "Baba, I've been in your ashram for a few weeks, but
I have to leave now. Thank you very much for allowing me to stay here."
He looked at me for a moment and said, "Where are you going?" It was a
reasonable and friendly question. I told him I wanted to go to Benares to meet a
friend. He looked at me again, differently, as though he were an x-ray machine.
Something in me quivered. "Why do you want to go to Benares?" he asked. "It's
cold there at this time of year. It's cold in Benares."
At his last word I went totally blank. I can recall that something in me skipped
a beat: it was a sudden disruption of equilibrium, as if my feet slipped out
from under me on ice without warning. I was disoriented and confused and I
couldn't regain my inner balance. Then I plunged into timelessness for an
encounter with silence. I don't know how to describe those moments. I know it
will sound odd, but I wasn't there: I disappeared. That's why I don't know what
to say.
The next thing I remember, I was standing in front of Herve, some thirty feet
away from Baba. I stammered, "I guess I won't be going to Benares." Herve
cracked up.
There were many perfectly polite and rational things I could have said to Baba
when he told me how cold it was in Benares, like "Yes, but I have warm clothes"
or "Don't worry, I won't be there long." But something transpired in that
exchange which, to this day, I still can't quite fathom. My life took a radical
turn. That moment foretold a dream I would have months later in which Baba,
holding my hand as we soared through space, whispered, "If you stay with me,
I'll take you flying to places you've never been before."
Baba's guru, Bhagawan Nityananda, was reported to have said, "The heart is the
sacred hub of the universe. Go there and roam in that space." I believe that the
experience I still can't fathom pointed me irrevocably towards that sacred hub.
I remained enthralled by Muktananda and remained under his tutelage for the next
ten years. During that decade, I was graced with many excursions to the sacred
hub of the universe.
I sometimes reflect on a conversation I had with Baba in his room in India
shortly before he passed away. He told me to return to America. He said I was to
be his emissary. He said he would tell me where to go and what to do. At that
time I thought he was referring to work he had asked me to do as a manager in
his organization. Perhaps he did, perhaps he didn't. If there is one thing that
is certain, it's that sages are quite inscrutable. Their words and actions have
layers of significance and some of the more subtle layers are revealed over
time. I don't think it is possible to understand a sage definitively. I don't
think anyone can know with certainty or authority what a sage says to a
particular person, including the person to whom the sage speaks. I do think that
behind everything a sage says is the basic commandment, "The heart is the sacred
hub of the universe. Go there and roam in that space."
Looking back, I think that's what Baba meant. I think he meant that I should
continue to roam in the sacred hub of the universe. He was showing me my path in
this life. To be his emissary is to stand for the light of our own true nature,
our essence, the Self. I think he meant that I should serve that Self and listen
to that Self and follow that Self. Rumi, a Sufi poet of the Self, said the same
thing in this way, "Let the love of holy laughter guide you." I think this is
what Baba meant.
A few days after that conversation, I said good-bye to him as he sat on his
chair in the courtyard. I began to slowly walk away, resigned to return to
America. He called me one last time. As I turned to him, I saw he had leaned
forward in his chair. He held a tiny candy in his right hand. With an impish and
mischievous smile that contained all the love I could ever want, he said, "You
should never leave the ashram without something sweet." That was the last time I
saw him.
Over the years, I have tried to follow his instructions. I agree with J.
Krishnamurti, who said that truth is a pathless land. The pathless path is not
always clear, rarely certain, frequently terrifying, always challenging. Roaming
in the sacred hub of the universe is simple, but it's not easy. Still, I think
we should try.
What Baba said to me is an important message for everyone. I think we all know
intuitively that our real home is the sacred hub of our own heart and that our
real identity is that Self which is identical to the supreme consciousness that
pervades the entire universe. I sincerely hope we will all try to experience the
truth of that sacred hub, our own Self, and to then fully embody its
transcendent beauty in every thing we do.
In this way, our lives and this planet will become a living paradise of joy and
peace. May everyone on Earth experience the truth of their own heart, their own
Self -- the one heart and the one Self to which we all belong.
©Robert Rabbin/All Rights Reserved/2004
Robert Rabbin is
a San Francisco-based writer and speaker. Robert is the author of numerous books
and articles, and the founder of Radical Sages. For more information, please
visit www.robrabbin.com and www.radicalsages.com.
